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 Laos Travel Guide

Laos has been known since ancient times as Lan Xang, or Land of the Million Elephants, and offers visitors a glimpse of old Indochina. It is less developed than its Chinese, Thai and Vietnamese neighbours, and traditionally the most reserved, but offers natural beauty and shy hospitality combined with a mix of original Buddhist culture and French influences. It also shares its borders with Burma and Cambodia.

A mountainous, landlocked country, situated at the heart of South East Asia, Laos' lifeline is the Mekong River that flows the length of the country, providing water for agricultural lands and a major means of transport. Vientiane, the unassuming capital, is situated on its banks, and the city provides a comfortable introduction to the charms of the country. Laos's most enticing destination is the town of Luang Prabang, the former royal kingdom, with a legacy of splendid golden temples and whitewashed houses.

A troubled history of French colonization, internal conflicts and assertive communism chased much of Laos' population away in the 1970s and isolated the country from the outside world. Today, though, the doors stand open, and services for travellers are gradually being instituted so that visitors can enjoy an unrivalled look at the old-fashioned way of life of a country still largely unscathed by the harsh effects of mass tourism. Tourists willing to brave the lack of infrastructure will discover charming towns and rural villages, smiling, endearing people, splendid scenery, and a slow, relaxed pace of life.

Attractions: Vientiane is more colourful and cheerier than any communist European capital. Most places of interest are concentrated in a small area around parallel Setthathirat and Samsenthai roads, including the commercial and administrative districts. It's easy to explore on foot along shady avenues and streets stretching from the pleasant Mekong riverside to Talaat Sao, the morning market. Surrounded by a lush garden, Wat Si Saket is one of Vientiane's oldest temples, although not the oldest Buddhist site - many temples were destroyed during wars in the 19th century. A large wat bearing a strong Thai influence with some fine, but fading Buddhist murals, it's home to over 6,000 Buddhas of varying sizes and styles. More tranquil than most temples, it's worth lingering for a few extra moments in the pleasant garden before returning to the dusty streets.

10 minutes' walk west along Setthathirat Rd is Wat Ong Teu Mahawihan, one of the centers of Buddhist theology in Laos. The place never seems overrun with monks. Interesting features include intricate carvings, a large bronze Buddha and a big drum atop a tower.

Hop in a tuk-tuk for a 10-minute ride, via the Arc de Triomphe-like Patuxai, along some could-be-grand avenues to Pha That Luang, a very-sacred, castle-like symbol of Buddhism and the Laotian state. The stupa dates back 400 years, although it was rebuilt early last century. The design embodies Buddhist ideas about ascending to Nirvana, and of course depicts many Buddhas. There are a few other grand buildings, such as the unfinished 1969 Patuxai national monument and the new Chinese-financed cultural center.

Charting the history of the Pathet Laos march to victory, the Lao Revolutionary Museum is something of a gem as there aren't too many communist propaganda halls like this left. Housed in a sprawling mansion on Samsenthai Rd, exhibits include maps, uniforms, and guns used by Laotians or imperialists. There's also a small exhibition on Laotian culture, geography and geology, which seems to be an afterthought. Open 8-11.30am and 2-4.30pm, weekdays.

Once the Royal Temple, Haw Pha Kaew houses many royal religious artifacts including a throne, manuscripts and bronze drums. Also here are a number of Buddhas, plus a good collection of Laotian Buddhist sculpture. Although it is no longer a temple, some still make offerings on top of a wooden naga. Open 8-11.30am and 2-4.30pm, Tuesday to Friday.

Kaysone Phomvihane Museum is dedicated to the life of the Pathet Lao leader who directed wartime communist forces from a cave in the northeast, and became Laos' first post-war leader. It's a cult-like place, following his life from a boy in southern Savannakhet province to guerilla leader and architect of a postwar workers utopia. Open 8-11.30am and 2-4.30pm, Tuesday to Friday.

Health: Those planning to travel to Laos should seek medical advice about vaccinations and endemic diseases at least three weeks prior to departure. Malaria exists throughout the country except in Vientiane, and typhoid and cholera occur in some areas. Other risks include HIV/AIDS, hepatitis A, B and E and dengue fever. Travellers' diarrhoea is a problem for many visitors; only drink bottled water and avoid dairy products, uncooked meat and fish, salads and unpeeled fruit. Medical care in Vientiane is extremely basic and outside the capital there are no reliable facilities to deal with medical emergencies. Medical evacuation is difficult to organise and very expensive. Travellers are advised to take out comprehensive medical insurance, and those who have an unstable medical condition should consider not travelling to Laos. A yellow fever certificate is required by all entering from an infected area. Although no human cases have been reported, bird flu has been detected in poultry and wild birds and visitors should avoid contact with domestic, caged and wild birds and ensure that poultry and egg dishes are well cooked; the risk is very low for travellers.

Tipping: Tipping is becoming more widely practiced in tourist hotels and restaurants where 10% is expected; elsewhere there is no need to tip.

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Entertainment and Eating Out: Although Vientiane's nightlife and dining scene has picked up over the last few years, the place isn't overrun with clubs and restaurants. Most streets are deserted by midnight. A few bars and plenty of restaurants, many al fresco and informal, line Fa Ngum St along the Mekong between Chao Anou and Mahosot streets. One block north along Setthathirat Rd and the streets leading to it from Fa Ngum, are more restaurants and bars, including the well-established Sam Lo. These tend to be more upmarket, but still very good value.

Chess Club on Mahosot St is worth seeking out. There are a few bakeries along Setthathirat and Chao Anou. Just off Setthathirat is Nam Phu, the Fountain Circle, which is a pleasant place for drinks. Around it are a few Italian and French restaurants, plus a Swedish bakery.

Talaat Sao, the morning market, actually runs all day and is a great place to join locals for a bowl of noodles or grilled chicken. Baguettes with local pat are also plentiful here.

In the evenings, Chao Anou St and a few of the side streets draw stalls selling bean curd and noodles. There are also a few restaurants here that do noodles and chicken or duck rice.

At the far end of Chao Anou, beyond Samsenthai St near Khun Bulom St is a night market selling pungent curries, grilled chicken, spicy salads and other specialties (often take-away only).

Safety: Most visits to Laos are trouble free, but there have been bombing incidents and attacks on buses mainly in Vientiane in recent years, resulting in injury and death. These appear to have been linked to domestic disputes rather than international terrorism, but visitors are warned of the possibility of being caught up in such incidents. Theft of passports is a problem and travellers are advised to take care, avoid carrying large sums of money and keep valuables and documents in a safe place. Travel in some rural parts of Laos is dangerous because of banditry and unexploded ordnance. Visitors should also note that an ID document or passport should be carried at all times and should be presented on demand or a heavy fine could be imposed.

Customs: Short and revealing clothes are generally not acceptable. Public displays of affection are taboo in Lao society. Avoid touching anyone on the head or using the feet to point at anything. Appropriate dress and behaviour when entering places of worship are essential. The Lao government prohibits any sexual contact or relationships between Lao nationals and foreigners, unless married under Lao law; penalties may involve heavy fines or imprisonment.

Shopping: Vientiane isn't the place to storm shopping malls for Louis Vuitton or Prada. Instead it offers some of the purest silver, much made into intricate pieces by the country's tribes, fine ethnic artifacts and clothing, plus many unique wooden household items.

The eastern end of Samsenthai is home to a handful of jewelers, ethnic and antique shops.

Talaat Sao, which includes the dreary state department store, is probably a better place to look; prices are likely to be keener and the range greater. Talaat Sao and the area outside the post office are the places to head for herbal medicine. Prices in shops are more likely to be fixed, although it's always worth making an offer.

Fresh food prices in the markets are usually fixed. For other items, good-natured bargaining can often elicit a discount.

Business: Laos has a hot, tropical climate and therefore, for business, lightweight suits are common, worn with a tie. Visitors should bear in mind that the country is generally rather conservative and act accordingly. Business cards should be given and received using both hands and should be treated with respect; one should examine any card for a few moments and either leave the card out in the open on the desk, or store in an appropriate card holder or wallet. Handshakes are common, but a traditional greeting is the phanom or wai, similar to the Indian namaste where palms are placed together as if in prayer and held in front of the chest or face. Surnames usually come before first names, which can be confusing for visitors. French is more widely spoken and understood than English, though translators are available. Business hours are usually from 8am to 12 noon and 1pm to 4pm Monday to Friday.

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Getting From A to B: Outside of Vientiane, travelling by road or boat is a haphazard affair and schedules are extremely elastic. Most buses, often geriatric hand downs from Korea or Japan, only leave when full, which can be very frustrating. Boats can be more reliable, although they often take longer where a more direct, surface road exists. Chartering small boats is another option. Flying is the quickest and most comfortable way to travel in Laos.

Taxis are mainly found in Vientiane itself – they're not cheap compared to tuk-tuks. Many are well past their sell by date too. However, a fleet of relatively new Volkswagens has recently appeared in Vientiane providing a pricey but handy 40-50 km trip to the Thai border.

Also known as jumbos, taxis or samlor, tuk-tuks are common in the capital. Hail a passing three-wheeler by waving a hand up and down, palm facing the ground. Haggling is obligatory, but they're cheap and go almost anywhere.

There are few rickshaws left in Laos, and most of those doing the cycling are old men with dark, leathery skin. Still nothing quite beats travelling this way. Quiet, and at a steady pace in a comfortable chair, it's the perfect way to cruise around town if there's no rush.

Around Vientiane runs a fleet of buses donated by the Japanese government. Unless visiting places far from the city centre, most visitors will have little reason to take a city bus.

Laos has no railways yet, although there are plans to extend the Thai railway from Nong Khai across the Friendship Bridge to Vientiane. Expect a long wait before trains finally chug into Vientiane.

Some of these buses have also been pressed into service on inter-provincial routes. They are reasonably comfortable, although the long legged may find them a touch cramped. There's no aircon.

Also running on inter-provincial routes are truck-buses - a truck chassis with a wooden bus body - and songthaews - pick-up trucks with seats running down the sides and a roof to keep the sun and rain out. The great advantage of truck-buses, for men anyway, is that it's usually permissible to lounge on the roof, admiring the great scenery once the bus is out of town.

Running along the Mekong and its tributaries, are three types of boats. Cargo boats cruise up to China but the route isn't open to foreigners yet. Long, narrow passenger boats or small speedboats can be chartered, and it's not usually a problem to ride on cargo boats within Laos either. Main routes are along the Mekong, Pak and Tha rivers.

Lao Aviation operates services to most provinces, plus a few services to Cambodia, Thailand Vietnam and Kunming in China. Lao Aviation operates low altitude turboprop planes, which are often buffeted by strong turbulence caused by the rugged topography. Combined with the often heavy cloud cover, this makes landing at smaller provincial airports tricky.

Note: Only Vientiane and Luang Prabang are equipped with electronic landing aids. Lao Aviation is strapped for cash and crashes are relatively frequent, with at least two in 2000. Many embassies advise against flying with Lao Aviation.

Taxis and tuk-tuks are readily available at the Wattay international airport, on the edge of town. Hard bargaining may be necessary to gain a reasonable price.

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Events: Most Buddhist festivals are held on a full moon day. The dates of other holidays may not be fixed either.

Lunar New Year falls around the middle of April. This festival involves visiting temples, making offerings and dousing everybody in water. These days it's quite raucous and great fun, although it used to be a very genteel affair.

In May Visakha Puja, a celebration of the Buddha's birth, enlightenment and death, involves many religious activities at temples and picturesque candlelight marches during the evening. May also sees the Rocket Festival - bamboo rockets are spectacularly fired into the sky to encourage the rains to come, while on the ground, parties and theatre dominate the merrymaking.

The most important time of the year for men to temporarily join the monkhood is in July. Buddhist Lent is the day when monks are supposed to enter one temple and not leave for 3 months to prevent them from wandering and damaging crops.

That Luang Festival, a 7-day November festival held at Pha That Luang in Vientiane, involves fireworks, music, theatre, monks receiving alms, a special temple market and cultural showcase, finishing with a candlelit procession.

December 2nd sees Lao National Day, an obligatory celebration of the 1975 revolution, when the communist Pathet Lao peacefully swept into power. Plenty of parades and speeches a la May Day in the former Soviet Union.

Communications: The international access code for Laos is +856. The outgoing code is 00 followed by the relevant country code ( e.g. 001 for the United States). City/area codes are in use, e.g. (0)21 for Vientiane and (0)71 for Luang Prabang. International Direct Dial is available in the major towns, but the service is expensive and inefficient. Hotels sometimes add a hefty surcharge to their telephone bills: check before making long-distance calls. Mobile phones will only work in the major cities; it is advisable to check the coverage with your service provider before leaving as the local mobile phone companies have few active roaming agreements with other network operators. Internet cafes are widely available in tourist areas.

Duty Free: Travellers to Laos do not have to pay duty on 500 cigarettes or 100 cigars or 500g of tobacco; 2 bottles wine, or 1 bottle of other alcohol; and jewellery up to 500g, provided they are from countries not bordering Laos.

Laos Passport & Visa Requirements

• Entry requirements for Americans : United States citizens must have a valid passport. A visa is also required.
• Entry requirements for UK nationals : British citizens must have a valid passport. A visa is also required.
• Entry requirements for Canadians : Canadians must have a valid passport. A visa is also required.
• Entry requirements for Australians : Australians must have a valid passport. A visa is also required.
• Entry requirements for South Africans : South Africans must have a valid passport. A visa is also required.
• Entry requirements for New Zealanders : New Zealand citizens must have a valid passport. A visa is also required.
• Entry requirements for Irish nationals : Irish nationals must have a valid passport. A visa is also required.

Passport / Visa Note : Those requiring visas should obtain them in their home country before travelling to Laos. Visas are available on arrival at Vientiane and Luang Prabang International Airports, as well as at the major Laos-Thai border crossings for nationals of those countries without Laos representation. Visas allow for a maximum stay of 15 days (one extension possible) if the traveller has a return or onward ticket, a confirmed hotel reservation in Laos, and a contact individual or organisation based in Laos. A photograph is also needed; the total visa cost is US$30. On entering Laos visitors must ensure they receive an entry stamp in their passport as fines for not having one are high. All visitors' passports should be valid for at least six months.

Note : Passport and visa requirements are liable to change at short notice. Travellers are advised to check their entry requirements with their embassy or consulate.